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»How long did this jeans take you?« my husband asked. Good question, the answer: »Well, a long time …« So why the hell would someone sew a selfmade pair of jeans? On the one hand I was up for a new challenge after sewing some »real« trousers for my daughter and the idea of sewing jeans seemed not that crazy after all.
On the other hand when it comes to the industrial production of jeans there is obviously a lot of dirty work included so instead of supporting this in buying such a product I decided on getting some organic jeans fabric and give it a try.
I did an evening of research on which pattern to use and after this comparison of Ash and Liana Jeans I decided on the Liana Jeans by Itch to Stitch because of the lower rise and the pocket-stay-construction. I chose this stretch denim and spent another evening researching back pocket designs and how to achieve proper topstitching. Well, maybe I was a bit afraid of really starting to cut into the nice denim.
I know doing it the proper way would have been to make a muslin and check on the fit first. But I don’t have any fabric that equals in any way the denim I had bought. So I tried to be accurate when measuring myself and thought about, what I dislike about my storebought jeans: about 5cm too long, a bit tight at thighs and calves and too wide at the waist. According to my measurements I chose the skinny leg option and a size 6 and blended at the waist to a size 4.
The sewalong on the website of Itch to Stitch includes tips for topstitching, fitting and everything else you need to do in the process of making jeans. The sewing takes time with all the edge- and topstitching, shortening zippers and putting in the rivets, but is definitely doable without going nuts and the sewalong guides you through every step. As I didn’t want the legs ending too tight at the thighs and calves I basted the trousers together and after that used only about 0,8 cm of the seam allowance (1,25 cm seam allowance is included in the pattern).
What I would do differently with my next pair: the waist is a little bit too tight, so next time stay with size 6 for the waist or get slimmer, whatever works. There are a lot of creases in the back – any tipps to reduce that? And as a minor issue: putting in the rivets before sewing on the waistband would probably be easier.
What I love: the easy way the zipper is sewn in and the pocket stays construction, the beautiful darkblue denim that has a bit of a shine, and having sewn a real pair of jeans, wohoo! Put a smile on my face the whole day I was wearing this selfmade pair of jeans.
Pattern and fabrics are bought on my own.